This is a ventilated riser for the Centauri Carbon with hinged magnetic doors. Can be easily customized to your liking right in your slicer!

Before printing!

This model has some tight clearances, while the Centauri Carbon can easily print this I do recommend using a well calibrated filament profile.
A test model with an exact copy of the connection between pieces is included in the files. Please print this first to check the fit without potentially wasting a bunch of filament and print time.

Required materials

6x2mm round magnet, 16 pcs

Printed pieces

For easy customizability, I have released a minimum amount of base models and various modifiers to those models. The modifiers can be combined as you please to easily make the exact version you want.

To use the modifiers, just drag the base part and any modifiers you want onto your slicer together and select yes when it asks you to load them as a single object with multiple parts. After that go to object settings, right click the modifier and change it to the correct type (as indicated in the filename).

Required pieces

4x Centre, at least one with the “Handle Cutout” negative part
4x Door
2x Corner (for the front left and back right)
2x Corner mirrored (for the front right and back left)

Centre modifiers

Negative Part - Handle Cutout
Adds a cut out for the glass handle. Required for the front piece!
Part - High Lip
Increases the lip height to 3mm to allow for a gasket or foam to be added between the glass and riser.
Negative Part - No Lip
Removes the lip entirely. In combination with the lip cutout on the corner pieces, this will allow the glass to slide open.
Negative Part - No LED Holders
Removes the LED strip holders to save some material and print time.

Door modifiers

Modifier - Lines
Modifier - Infinity Left
Modifier - Infinity Centre
Modifier - Infinity Right

Adding your own design can be as easy as adding an SVG file as a modifier in your slicer. I recommend 0.4mm thickness so it's 2 layers.
Using a patterned build plate is also an option, as the bottom of the print will be the visible side (do make sure it's compatible with your filament of choice).
Also consider swapping to TPU for the last few layers for a built-in gasket.

Corner modifiers

Just like the corners themselves, these modifiers exist in both regular and mirrored versions. Make sure to match them.

Part - High Lip
Increases the lip height to 3mm
Negative Part - Lip Cutout
Cuts out the front/back part of the lip to allow the glass sliding forwards or backwards. Make sure to print a centre without lip as well!
Part - High Lip for Cutout
Alternative version of the high lip for use with the lip cutout negative part

Filament Type

I recommend printing this in PETG or something with more temperature resistance.
PLA is not recommended because it softens at too low temperatures.

Print settings

This model is designed for and tested with the following settings:

0.2mm layer height
~0.4mm line width (some variation is possible, especially if using the arachne wall generator)
Walls: 3+ (for walls printing order)
Walls printing order: Inner-Outer-Inner (for improved dimensional accuracy)
For the door and centre pieces: Solid/sparse infill direction: 0 degrees (the models themselves are rotated 45 degrees)
No supports
No brim

The models are provided in the recommended print orientation. You can fit 2 centres or 2 doors on the Centauri Carbon build plate at once. You may have to manually place them if auto-arrange fails to fit two.

Assembly

Glue in the magnets for the doors and centre pieces with a drop of superglue. Make sure to orient them so the doors are attracted to the centre pieces. Wipe off any excess glue and let it dry thoroughly before continuing.
Install the doors by pushing the sides into place first, then align the centre hinge points with the notches and push it in. Pushing the centre hinge into place requires some force, it should open and close freely once it popped into place.
Connect the corners and centres by simply pushing them together. The last bit will require some force again, but it should snap into place. This connection is solid even without glue, but you can add glue or tape if you want a more airtight seal between the parts.

Note: the corners are not symmetrical, make sure to connect the shorter edge of each corner to the front or back piece.
Optionally: add an LED strip to the angled ledge on the inside.
The cable can be routed alongside the print head cable down into the bottom compartment, no (permanently open) holes to the outside necessary.

Remixes

Please create extra modifiers/parts to apply to these base models instead of releasing modified versions directly. By releasing modifiers and parts, people can easily mix and match any modifications they like for the best customizability.