1. Inspect first, then print

2. Fully printed, with no metal hardware; features a complete skeletal structure and is entirely modular, requiring no AMS. Height: 20 cm, with thirty-four movable joints.

3. If any assembly becomes too loose or too tight, simply adjust the parts yourself or slightly modify the dimensions of the interlocking joints. For a loose horizontal rotation joint at the waist, you can apply a bit of glue to secure it—since there’s also a horizontal rotation joint beneath the chest that provides sufficient stability. At the crotch and upper/lower thigh junctions, I recommend applying glue directly. I’m fully aware of these issues, but given the overall design and the proportions of the waist and hips, I’ve chosen not to make changes. Please consider applying some glue where needed.

4. The configuration uses an A1mini printer; the first four layers consist of skeletal components, while the remaining layers comprise the outer armor pieces. You’re free to choose your own color scheme—I opted for R3D’s silver finish.

5. Hand shapes are compatible with other weapons featured on my homepage.

6. Additionally, TPU replacement skeletal parts and extra styling hands are available on my homepage; feel free to print them if desired.

7. In short, let me clarify upfront: this isn’t a model that can be easily printed and assembled. Since ball joints tend to wear down and loosen over time, most joints are designed as articulated pivot assemblies. Due to variations in printer consumables, you may need to fine-tune part dimensions within your slicing software—learn how online if necessary. You might also have to perform tasks like applying adhesive to the print bed or trimming flash—after all, 3D-printed models will never match the precision of injection-molded ones. If you encounter any issues, take the time to troubleshoot; as long as everything fits together and moves smoothly, that’s what matters.

8. I’m currently printing a claw‑shaped weapon.